The Wooden Boat Festival is September 9-11 in Port Townsend, WA. Stop by our booth! Hope to see you there. For more information, go to: http://www.woodenboat.org/festival/
2011 Wooden Boat Festival
August 25th, 2011Epoxy Paste Pigments
July 7th, 2011Our Paste Pigments are pure, dry, colored, pigments dispersed in in an epoxy resin blend. They are pourable, easily measured, and contain no solvents, and may be blended with one another to produce additional colors. Since they are dispersed in an epoxy resin blend, they react into the system and do not change its cured properties. The proper way to use these pigments is to add them to the resin (Part A) side and then add the hardener(Part B) at the correct ratio for the epoxy system being used.
The pigments will make a clear epoxy base resin translucent or opaque depending on a number of factors, including amount added, substrate color, pigment used, film thickness and the presence of any other fillers. Paste colors are very concentrated and may be blended with one another in any proportion, keeping in mind to add a maximum of approximately 10% pigment paste by volume of combined resin and hardener.
When adding two or more pigment pastes together, it is easiest to make a “master batch” of the combined colorss and clear base, and mix with hardener as needed. The master colored Part A batch will allow you to avoid having to match a particular color combination each time you mix some clear product to tint. This batch can be stored for later use since this tinted Part A resin base is stable in any proportion. If the tinted resin has sat for more than a couple of days though, it can settle upon standing so re-mix it prior to the next use.
Although these pigments will make an epoxy coating colored and opaque they will not improve the cured system’s resistance to UV degradation. Protect the cured epoxy with a clear coating containing UV absorbers if it will be exposed to sunlight for long periods of time. System Three’s WR-LPU Clear Topcoat or Urethane Spar Varnish are excellent choices for UV protection. All epoxy systems yellow slightly over time, but it is usually apparent only for white
pigmented systems.
Using System Three pigment paste concentrates is an easy way to expand the possibilites of liquid epoxy resin use for decoration of many projects.
Hot Tubbing with SilverTip Epoxy
February 11th, 2011
Super "R" Hot Tub
This is the Super “R” hot tub from Maine Cedar Hot Tubs, Inc. The outer shell of these tubs is constructed from an oil finished Western Red Cedar and accented with brushed stainless steel bands to mirror the appearance of the traditional cedar or redwood tub.
Maine Cedar Hot Tubs, Inc. use System Three Silvertip Epoxy to cold-mould and overlay the cap rail, base rail, and inner shell of the tub. This process yields an extremely durable and waterproof vessel with a character and appearance that is more like a piece of fine furniture than a hot tub.
The void between the inner and outer shells contains the jet piping and four inches of closed-cell foam insulation; the “R” factor, as built, is 25 making these tubs very economical to operate. The cold-moulded portion of the tub that is pictured is done with cedar facing, however, any wood that the customer desires can be used. Previous materials used include teak, cherry and various figured hardwoods all with stunning results. The tubs are available in nominal diameters of 5 through 8 ft. and to any depth the customer desires.
Samantha Malay Uses MirrorCoat for Metal Tiles
February 11th, 2011I like to make durable surfaces using resin and small pieces of salvaged metal. I learned about MirrorCoat™ from Darin Montgomery, furniture designer-builder and owner of Urbancase. Nick Gucker at System Three Resins was very helpful, by phone and email, when I had technical questions about its use.
Poolside #6
I start with an image on paper, often a detail from my collection of vintage travel postcards, which I glue to the clean and sanded metal. I may drill holes in the upper corners of the metal at this point, if it’s to be a hanging piece.
I use discarded cookie sheets to place my metal pieces on. These are handy for several reasons: the lip on the sheet prevents over poured MirrorCoat from oozing everywhere, and when they’re done curing, a quick twist of the tray releases them.
Poolside #9
I wear thick rubber gloves (latex ones can stick and pieces may remain on the working surface) and tie my hair back. I mix MirrorCoat according to the instructions and pour it over my metal pieces.
Unless I have a fairly dust-free workspace, I find a cardboard box large enough to fit over the tray, which allows good airflow while keeping debris off the resin.
After they’ve cured thoroughly, I pry the metal pieces off the tray, use a rasp to get the big over pour chunks off, and sand the surfaces, being careful not to over-sand the sides (this can create thin spots that could let moisture in, undesirable if I’m planning to use them outdoors. Also, if the MirrorCoat does not entirely encase the metal piece, it may not be suitable for wet environments, as the metal will begin to rust, and the resin will begin to resist, rather than seal, the metal.)
I sometimes pour a second coat of resin at this point, allow it to cure, then re-sand. I like to apply a UV-resistant spray as a last step. MirrorCoat creates a translucent finish that adds depth and glint to the image beneath.
Poolside #13b garden tile + plants
You can see Samantha’s work at Twilight Artist Collective in West Seattle, twilightart.ning.com/profile/SamanthaMalay
See Urbancase at http://www.urbancase.com/.
Photos by Benjamin Malay, http://www.benjaminmalay.com/.
Custom 10′ skiff
December 7th, 2010My latest project, a ten-foot, flat bottom skiff. Designed and built by yours truly. The boat was built with 1/4″ meranti plywood from Edensaw, and of course, System Three general purpose resin and T-88, (purchased from Revchem in Tacoma).
10' Custom Plywood Flat-Bottom Skiff
This is actually my fourth boat in the past five years or so. A picture of my kayak is still on your web site. I have to confess, that I have tried a few other epoxies over the past years, and I keep coming back to System Three!
To me, the acid test for an epoxy is it’s resistance to cratering when applied over a sanded, epoxy coating, compared to other brands, System Three does every time. I hope you continue selling the general purpose resin, because I’m afraid to try any other resins!
I want to include your new SilverTip stuff! I may have to break down and try some EZ-Fillet, and Gel-Magic on my next project, though.
Yours Truly,
George Burns
Scribner’s Skiff
December 7th, 2010
Stitch & Glue Montana Boatbuilders Skiff
I built a stitch and glue Montana Boatbuilders Skiff from a kit using Silvertip Epoxy with slow hardener. It was a great project and continues to be great fun.
Bill Scribner
Cheyenne, WY
The GoldenEye Standard
December 6th, 2010
Pygmy Boats The GoldenEye Standard
This is a picture of my Pygmy Boats GoldenEye Standard. I made a hybrid version of this because I wanted to try strip building but I was inexperienced. So I decided to try it on the deck only. The hull is made up of 4mm Okume Plywood and the deck is made of up White Ash, Honduras Mahogany, and Black Walnut combinations. I used System Three products in every aspect of the building process from gluing the plywood panels together, wetting out the fiberglass cloth, and the polyurethane coating of the whole kayak. I love the products that I am using from System Three and will continue to use them on my next kayak project.
Glenn Brzyski
Designer and ASME Certified GDTP
Moog, Inc.
Rot Repair: A Profitable Trend Well Worth Following
September 8th, 2010Rot Repair: A Profitable Trend Well Worth Following
By Gary Meixner
Published June, 2010: American Painting Contractor Magazine
Keeping up with the latest trends in any industry can be maddening. It seems that no sooner you get on the band wagon that you find the market has changed and its on to the next big thing.
With a wave of painfully rational thinking sweeping the country, brought on by a weak economy, there is one trend that all painting contractors should be on board with; now more than ever, home owners are choosing to have damaged architectural wood components repaired rather than replaced.
Rarely will a paint contract go uninterrupted by unseen damage. Replacement or repair is usually the only option. Replacement can be costly and time consuming. Older homes often require custom millwork and of course your favorite carpenter is unavailable until next month.
In most cases, rot and insects, along with inadequate maintenance are the culprits. When serious structural damage has occurred there is little that the painting contractor can do, but for weather checked window sills and the rotted bottoms of door casings and porch posts, repairs are well within the scope of most painting crews.
Penetrating epoxy resins, along with epoxy putties and pastes have been used for years by restoration professionals in cases where existing components must be preserved. Despite their seemingly exotic nature, epoxies are really no different to use than the water based putties or the polyester products you are already familiar with. The differences are they adhere to wood with tenacity of a sumo wrestler. The best formulas are 100% waterproof. Once cured, epoxy putties will not shrink or swell. Most can be machined, carved, sanded and painted like wood.
The process is fairly intuitive. First eliminate all soft, crumbling or spongy wood. For the next step, not all systems include, but this writer highly recommends the use of a preservative to kill the rot fungus and wood eating insects. Without this treatment, rot and insects can remain active behind the repair causing it to fail overtime.
There are a variety of water soluble borate preservatives available for this process. Borates have been proven to be highly effective at wiping out rot as well as powder post beetles, carpenter ants, termites, etc. Keep in mind that some preservatives are in a solvent based or oily liquid and may interfere with the epoxies adhesion. Read the instructions and make sure the two are compatible.
Next, a low viscosity, liquid epoxy resin can used to return structure to the remaining wood. Mix the resin and hardener according to manufactures instruction. Mixing ratios for epoxy vary by manufacturer and must be followed exactly – so read carefully. Flood the cavity and surrounding wood with the mixed liquid and allowed it to soak in. Once cured you have a solid base for the next step which fills in the missing wood.
For this, use a two part epoxy putty or paste. Again, measure and mix according the manufactures instructions. Pack or spread the material into the repair area, just slightly over filling. It will take anywhere between a few hours to overnight for the mixture to set up. Epoxies generally are not affected by humidity but are temperature sensitive and will cure more slowly in cold weather. Once the putty is hard you simply sand to shape, then prime and paint.
It really won’t take you long to learn how to use this stuff. The material is not all that expensive and most have an unlimited shelf life. Epoxies and borate preservatives are safe to use. Follow the label warnings which are usually to avoid prolonged and repeated skin contact.
Rot repairs can easily become another service for you to offer your customers that will put more money in your pocket. Some contractors are finding that repair work can contribute significantly to their yearly revenue. I guess a dip in the economy is good for one thing in that it slows things down, and forces people to look at what they really need and what actually bring them value.
WA State Sales Tax
January 20th, 2010Washington State Customers!
Please be advised that our new software was not giving us the correct sales tax rates on your invoices. As a temporary fix, we have forced our shopping cart to tax all WA State invoices at 9.5%. We will manually look up your rate and your final invoice will be charged the correct tax rate for your shipping address. We apologize for this confusion and hope to have it resolved shortly. Thanks for visiting systemthree.com